By Richard Mason, Columnist
“Wah Gwaan” is Jamaican “what’s happening”, the cheery greeting for all who enter the bright and fragrant restaurant at Sepulveda Street and Pacific Avenue. This new spot brings flavorful Jamaican cuisine to San Pedro. Deandrea Jones and her beautiful smile have brought the Jamaican spirit of hospitality to the neighborhood, and the wonderful aroma of jerk chicken grilling over charcoal is tough to resist. Add subtle Bob Marley tunes in the background to set the vibes.
Deandrea hales from Jamaica, and after college in upstate New York, she and her mother settled in the San Fernando Valley. San Pedro Wah Gwaan is a branch of the original restaurant on Crenshaw Boulevard in Leimert Park.
The legendary jerk chicken is grilling outside, filling the street with splendid smells. Tender and juicy and spiced with an excellent blended spice rub, the chicken is then dipped in a sauce that must not be missed. This “secret sauce” is spicy and a bit hot, just lovely with the chicken or jerked pork. Served along with an authentic dish of rice and peas (a blend of rice and red beans), the plate also included a stir-fried cabbage and mixed vegetable dish, just the right contrast to the spicy meats.
Jamaican curry goat is “Delicious! Just the right amount of heat,” declared a local connoisseur. A favorite of the Islands, goat is not always available, but well worth the wait. Curry is a seasoning mix usually associated with Indian cuisine. But India’s shared colonial history with Jamaica allowed curry to have uniquely Caribbean flavor,mild and savory, full of flavor. Fried chicken is available on the weekends, crispy and brown, with a Jamaican twist. For a rich gravy, the ox tail is long-simmered, enhanced with spices, smooth, but not hot. Seafood is cooked to order, with a choice of salmon or red snapper, prepared with a brown sauce, or escovich (cold cooked with an acid like vinegar or lemon), steamed, or shrimp with jerk seasoning, or curry, or fried.
Patties are a Jamaican concept, a satisfying snack for on the go. A patty made of beef, chicken, jerk chicken, or veggies is coated with a crunchy outside and fried until hot and crisp. A festival is a type of fried fritter made with cornmeal.
Wah Gwaan has an interesting assortment of soft drinks and sodas. Most amazing was a pineapple juice and ginger drink, strong on the ginger, but a perfect complement to the spice and heat of the cuisine.
Wah Gwaan Jamaican Kitchen
246 N.Pacific Avenue
424-482-3089