By Richard Foss, Cuisine and Restaurant Writer
Think of the smells of Christmas for just a moment—got it? You probably thought of baking spices, the cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg and cloves that accent everything from fruitcakes to holiday candles.
Those seasonal flavorings go back to 19th century London, to Queen Victoria and her German-born husband, Albert, who took such delight in Christmas that they turned a minor holiday into a commercial bonanza. The Christmas tree, sled rides and candy canes came from Albert’s boyhood in Bavaria. The bright Scottish plaids and English plum puddings Victoria favored would become part of American culture as well as theirs. The eccentricity of a beloved and trend-setting royal couple captured the world’s imagination.
Other flavors might come to mind if you didn’t grow up in England or the United States, or if your family honored their ancestral holiday traditions. Romanians get nostalgic over cakes filled with brandied cherries, Ukrainians over sweet nut and grain pudding, Argentines a heady mix of sparkling wine and pineapple juice. Some of these foods from around the globe involve rare ingredients or are difficult to make, and since you only get one chance to serve the perfect holiday meal, perhaps you’d rather buy them pre-made. With that in mind, we present this short guide to the delicacies of the Christmas season and where you can get them in the Harbor region:
Italian
Most Americans look forward to the roast beef, turkey or ham this season, but Italians look forward to the Feast of Seven Fishes. A-1 Market in San Pedro stocks up both on fresh fish and the salted codfish called baccalà, which is served fried in codcakes, braised with milk, anchovy and onions, or served in stews.
A-1 also carries the nougat candies called torrone and imported panettone breads. If you’d like your panettone freshly baked, the Amalfitano Bakery in Rancho Palos Verdes will be happy to oblige. The bakery also produces the Neapolitan honey pastries called struffoli, mostaccioli (not the pasta, the walnut cookie), rococo spice cookies and cuccidati fig cookies.
Details: (310) 833-3430
Venue: A-1 Market, 348 W. 8th St., San Pedro
Details: (310) 833-2253
Venue: Amalfitano Bakery, 29111 S. Western Ave., Rancho Palos Verdes
Balkan
In Croatia, Serbia and Slovenia a dinner of roast suckling pig with the stuffed cabbage called sarma is completed with a walnut pastry called Bishop’s Bread or a poppy seed cake called makovnjaca. The cakes were popular in San Pedro in past decades but are hard to find now — you’ll have to bake your own. You can, however, order the suckling pig, Croatian spices and sausage, and other items from South Shores Meat Shop in San Pedro. The owner, Darko, can explain the perfect way to cook the pig to get a crackling skin that is every diner’s dream.
Details: (310) 831-0044
Venue: South Shores Meat Shop, 2308 S. Western Ave., San Pedro
Filipino
It may seem odd that the centerpiece of a Filipino table is a Dutch cheese, but that’s the kind of thing that can happen in a country that was colonized by multiple European powers. Edam is known there as queso de bola, and can be purchased along with embutido, a stuffed holiday meatloaf, at Seafood City Market in Carson.
Details: (310) 834-9700
Venue: Seafood City Market, 131 W. Carson St., Carson
German and Northern European
Making a gingerbread house is one of the most enjoyable family traditions. Alpine Village Market offers the materials in an easy kit. They also have everything for a complete German holiday meal, including weisswurst, the veal and pork sausages that are a holiday treat in Bavaria, and stollen, the fruit bread scented with orange zest. Pick up a bottle of glühwein, the spiced wine that is served heated, to make things even more festive. Alpine Village has items from other holiday traditions too – Hungarians will want to pick up szaloncukor, the colorful candies that are used to decorate the Christmas tree.
Details: (310) 327-4384
Venue: Alpine Village, 833 W. Torrance Blvd., Torrance
Japanese
There is nothing wildly innovative about the Japanese Christmas cake: It’s a sponge cake topped with whipped cream and strawberries. Nevertheless, it has great symbolism in modern Japan. The cake’s red and white are the colors of the Japanese flag, its ornate decoration evokes traditional Shinto shrines. It’s a symbol of prosperity. The local Japanese community buys cakes at Nijiya Market, generally ordering in advance because they sell out quickly.
Details: (310) 534-3000
Venue: Nijiya Market, 2533 Pacific Coast Highway, Torrance
Mexican
At this time of year many Mexican restaurants and bakeries sell fruit tamales — one of the most popular variants includes pineapple, raisins, cinnamon and honey. They wash down those tamales with ponche Navideño. Some Mexican markets stock the hawthorn berries and guavas that are pulped and mixed with rum, tequila or brandy to make this sweet concoction. The distinctive pastry of the season is buñuelos, fried pastries scented with anise or cinnamon and sometimes served with syrup. You can get those and many other Mexican sweets at La Perla de Uruapan, a bakery on a side street in Wilmington. It’s a little hard to find, but if you don’t want to fry those doughnuts yourself, it’s a great stop.
Details: (310) 835-7030
Venue: La Perla de Uruapan, 1126 Sanford St., Wilmington.
Whether your Christmas is a holiday of great reverence or an opportunity to gather the family and give presents, connecting your menu with your heritage helps make a connection with your culture, which you can share with others. Whatever you eat and drink, we wish you a joyous season.