The sign over the door at La Bocca Felice reads “Dove il mare incontra la terra,” where the sea meets the land, and that’s appropriate for an Italian seafood restaurant in this location. San Pedro was one of the most productive fisheries in the world in the early 20th century with boats that were mainly crewed by Italians, and that language was once heard more often on these streets than English. Most fish that arrive in San Pedro now are in shipping containers rather than from our own boats, but it’s still a place where land and sea traffic converge.
The food those fishermen ate a hundred years ago was simpler than what you’d get at La Bocca Felice, but has some similarities in flavor because the restaurant’s owner adores Italian tradition. This may seem unusual since Nima Karimi was born in Iran and grew up in Norway, but the proof is on the plates. Somebody somewhere is probably making Norwegian-Italian fusion cuisine, but it’s not here.
The interior is decorated in classic style, but like everywhere else operating legally, at the moment dining is outside. They have a large space along Centre Street and a few tables along Sixth; I’d recommend the ones on Center that are more level and quieter. The chairs are metal and not particularly comfortable, so bring a pillow if you are not personally well-padded.
Our server brought some light tomato and herb focaccia to snack on while we studied the menu. Make sure you learn about the specials before deciding, because on any given day there are several. The list here isn’t long, but includes a variety of starters, pizzas, pastas and meat and seafood plates. On our first visit we over-ordered because we had heard that portions were on the small side, but if that was ever a problem, it isn’t now. My wife and I accidentally ordered enough for at least three people, but we weren’t complaining when we enjoyed the leftovers the next day.
We started with a daily special of seafood soup, a lightly creamy herbed broth packed with clams, mussels, fish, scallops and shrimp. To say this was a welcome starter on a cold evening is a massive understatement, because it hit every hearty and warming note. I could have happily had a big bowl as a main course, and I hope they keep this on the menu.
The next item to arrive was a pizza topped with pancetta, Yukon potato slices, rosemary and garlic. The bacon and potatoes made this item reminiscent of an American breakfast on a crust, and a good one. The crust was thin and had a bit of sourdough flavor and a nice rise, and it was substantial enough to be an entrée by itself. We each had a slice while it was hot and fresh, and saved the rest for breakfast because our entrées arrived unexpectedly quick. This may have been an error in the ordering process or kitchen timing, but however it happened it was a disappointment because we had planned to luxuriate in a leisurely dinner with a few glasses of wine. Next time, we’ll order each course only after the previous one has arrived or make sure the server understands our preferences. The owner apologized and offered to comp some items, which we appreciated.
We had ordered linguine with shrimp in pesto sauce, short rib pasta and a daily special of roasted local sea bass with baby potatoes and Italian broccoli. Our server highly recommended the seafood items when we asked about specialties, and though we had three of them in the course of one meal each was in a different sauce and preparation. The seabass was a large portion that had been subtly seasoned and cooked to perfect flakiness, then put over creamy, fragrant saffron sauce. The sauce was so good that I almost asked for more focaccia so I could mop up every bit.
The pesto sauce on the linguine was subtle and creamy with enough pepper to give it a slight kick, plus – and this is unusual in some regions of Italy – a sprinkling of cheese. It completely made sense in the context of the flavors, but while Italians in some regions enjoy the combination, others won’t put cheese on seafood items even if customers request it. If you are in the traditionalist faction, let your server know, but you will be missing something excellent.
The pappardelle with short rib ragu was housemade, and the wide, thick noodles were the right vehicle for the thick sauce. There were big chunks of tender meat and the portion was generous, so much of that rich dish went home to be enjoyed later.
La Bocca Felice has a well-chosen and reasonably priced wine list, but while ordering starters we became curious about a pair of cocktails on their list. It may not be traditional to pair Italian food with whiskey-based cocktails, but the Old Pirate and Beacon Street Bourbon were well-balanced and expertly made. With the main courses I asked for a glass of wine that would pair with the seafood, and was surprised when he brought a Trefethen Chardonnay. I had expected a more minerally Italian wine, but the Californian fruity, lightly oaky style wine worked quite well.
For dessert we had crisp cannoli with a filling that accented the cheesiness of the ricotta and had a hint of citron, a perfect finish to the meal.
While we enjoyed dessert I eyed a banner advertising family meals at remarkably low prices, with a full dinner for two starting at only $22. We decided to order their “Premier” family pack, which included a pasta, salad, salmon with roasted potatoes, and dessert for $36. Once again the portions were generous, plenty for two people who like to eat. We substituted linguine alfredo for the standard short rib pasta, which may not have been the best choice because alfredo sauce is at its best when fresh from the kitchen. Even after a while in the container it was still quite good, having lost a bit of the silkiness of the sauce as it cooled, but the flavor still was spot on.
The salmon was prepared as deftly as the seabass had been a few days before, and the salad had a housemade dressing that had a lightly sweet and fruity overtone that may have been from balsamic vinegar.
The panna cotta dessert with mango was a highlight, the fruit adding character to a dessert that is often just an excuse to eat gelatinized sweet cream. A wine pairing was offered, and the Ferrari Carano reserve Chardonnay was priced with a markup I’d expect from a liquor store rather than the higher rate typical at restaurants.
San Pedro has been a center for Italian-American dining since the days when square-riggers shared the harbor with steamers and tuna canneries lined the waterfront. With three other Italian restaurants on the same block and more within a short stroll, any new Italian place has to have something special to offer. La Bocca Felice certainly does. The name means “the happy mouth,” and mine was happy indeed after both dining-in and to-go experiences.
La Bocca Felice is at 301 W. 6th St., San Pedro. It is open from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday. There is an adjacent parking lot, some vegetarian items. The prices are moderate, between $25 to $35 per person. Reservations accepted for patio dining.
Details: 310-935-2135; bfelice.com