Cuisine

Dine By The Harbor: Looking Forward, Looking Back

News about the closing of Ports O’Call Village has hogged the headlines when it comes to the local restaurant environment. Yet, when it comes to local dining, a lot of other things have been going on in the Harbor Area. It’s worth taking a moment to review major events in the local dining scene in 2017 and what new changes are in the works.

The first big opening of 2017 was  Jackson’s Place on 7th Street in downtown San Pedro, the area’s first Cajun eatery. The modern dining room quickly became an evening hotspot with live music and a happening wine bar. Lunch and dinner business seems to be doing well, too. The restaurant just expanded the menu and brought in Chef Scott Persson; more changes are likely as he settles in.  Jackson’s Place is at 335 W. 7th St. in San Pedro. Details: (424) 477-5220

Elsewhere in town, the long-awaited Pappy’s opened to mixed reviews. However, it seems to have stabilized after a change in the service concept. The original pay-at-the-counter pattern was not popular, but table service by an energetic young staff improved the experience. The restaurant is still a work in progress and a full liquor license is pending. That will help Pappy’s compete with other establishments in the area. Pappy’s is at 301 W. 6th St. in San Pedro. Details: (424) 224-5444)

Around the corner, one of the more promising openings of 2016 fizzled. Punto Cubano got good reviews from the small Cuban community but lasted only a few days past its first year, closing suddenly in December, presumably because of a rent increase. As of this writing, there’s no word about what will replace Punto in the space previously occupied by the very popular Mishi’s Strudel shop. It’s a desirable slot with an extensively remodeled kitchen, so it presumably won’t be vacant long.

There were a few openings on Western Avenue, mostly fast food places, of which the most noteworthy was Pokeio, specializing in Hawaiian-style tuna and salmon bowls. Marinated raw seafood with different vegetable toppings seems to have hit a savory spot in the American palate. Pokeio seems to be thriving despite competition. Pokeio is at 1385 W. Park Western Ave. in San Pedro. Details:  (310) 400-7052

Elsewhere, there is action in some odd corners. Despite its eccentric hours, only four days a week, The Chori Man’s homemade sausage in burritos, tacos and quesadillas have been pulling a crowd to the side street. This place is proof that if you have a good enough idea people will find you wherever you are. Other entrepreneurs must be inspired by its success.  The Chori Man is at 2309 Alma St. in San Pedro. Details: (424) 287-2414

The other culinary business that opened locally doesn’t have much of a dine-in clientele. B.U.L.K. Beef Jerky is misleadingly named, since they sell much more than beef – other critters that are made into jerky and sausage include elk, emu, kangaroo, shark and even python. It’s easily the strangest niche market local business to open in recent memory. Some people stop in just to gawk before being tempted into a purchase. B.U.L.K. Beef Jerky is at 1931 Gaffey St. in San Pedro. Details: (424) 536-3050

            Wilmington was fairly quiet but had one noteworthy new entrant, Smoky Doky BBQ. This is the first barbecue specialist in this area since Porky’s closed in 2016. It has a small counter and most orders are to go. You’re not here for ambiance, but for smoky, peppery meat with the traditional sides. They are doing well enough that they often sell out. Smoky Doky BBQ is at 23 W. Anaheim St. in Wilmington. Details: (424) 364-0588

Carson also had several small openings and one big one: Restaurant 917 at the Porsche Experience Center. The cars that whiz by on the track may be German, but the food is California creative. The view of the test track is far from the only attraction. Restaurant 917 is at 19800 S. Main St. in Carson. Details:  (770) 290-7917)

Other restaurants around the area changed in less drastic ways. J. Trani’s remodeled its dining room to focus on the history both of the family business and the city. It’s an attractive new look. There’s a changing of the guard at Babouch as founding owner Kamal Keroles announced the sale of the restaurant and his retirement. The new owner, Trina Mendoza, intends to expand the menu but will keep serving the old favorites. Rafaello’s announced that it will move to a new location on 7th Street (the former DiOrio’s and Caliente Cantina), but the permit and remodeling process will take at least nine or 10 months. This move will put them in the middle of the San Pedro dining and art district and directly across from the owners’ other property, Michael’s Banquet Room.  Rafaello’s will remain open on Pacific Avenue until then. Any closure will be brief.

The intensity of the downtown San Pedro dining scene will kick up a few notches in 2018 with the opening of Port Town Brewing in the old Liberty Auditorium on 7th Street, by San Pedro Brewing Co’s James Brown. Remodeling is visibly progressing, and the tasting room should open by mid- to late summer. A kitchen may follow, but at the beginning they’ll be using Brew Co’s kitchen for events. There’s also action on 6th Street near Pappy’s, where an establishment called Cabrillo Bakery & Café will open in the former Starbucks. An  Italian restaurant may open soon, but isn’t yet confirmed. The synergies of these openings could change the downtown scene dramatically and bring more customers to all the local businesses, which would be a welcome development indeed.

Know of any restaurant openings, new culinary business or watering holes? Drop a tip at editor@randomlengthsnews.com.

Richard Foss

Richard Foss is a culinary historian, author and museum consultant who has lectured around the United States, Canada, Australia and New Zealand. He wrote the section on Croatian cuisine in the Encyclopedia of World Food Cultures and also contributed to the Oxford Companion to Sweets. He is working on his third book, which is about food in Spanish and Mexican colonial California from 1790 to 1846.

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