Pappy’s Brings ‘Pride to the Pacific’

There’s a strange story – no wait, two stories – about the new seafood house in downtown San Pedro. Greg Morena owns The Albright café on the Santa Monica Pier and bought the former Papadakis restaurant as his second venture. Morena celebrates Popeye the Sailor comics and cartoons at The Albright because both were set in Santa Monica, and when he considered naming his new restaurant a chain of logic formed in his head.

“San Pedro was seafood capital of the West Coast when Santa Monica was still a village, and it started me thinking,” Morena said. “Popeye’s father in the cartoon is an old sailor named Poopdeck Pappy, and I figured that Pappy would have been from San Pedro.”

Only after buying the place did he discover a second association with the name.

“I bought the place from John Papadakis, and later found out that the Papadakis family’s nickname was Pappy,” he said. “That goes back to Nick Papadakis, a very colorful character in San Pedro going back almost a hundred years. I had already been planning to name the place Pappy’s, and now I had two reasons to do so.”

Morena’s enthusiasm for history shows up in the décor, too. Locals may recognize the elegant wooden bar from its previous location, the second floor of a Ports O’Call restaurant variously called the Oyster Wharf and Fisherman’s Seafood. Morena recalled that it was easy to get ownership of the bar albeit a little tricky to take possession.

“Before they knocked that building down the port hooked me up with the demo guys,” he said. “They said, ‘You want to do our job for us? Go ahead, take whatever you want.’ We took the bar, the brass railings and stanchions, everything we could. Having amateurs get a 25-foot bar down a dogleg staircase was actually dangerous. I wouldn’t recommend it to anybody.”

The effort was worth it, because the old bar is the centerpiece of a room that was stripped to its early 20^th century framework. It was handy for Morena that the letter “P” in the tile floor, installed during the Papadakis era is also the appropriate monogram for his establishment.

The menu includes modern and multicultural selections like ceviche, paella, Brazilian seafood stew and a poke bowl, but about two-thirds of the items are simple classics based on fried and grilled seafood. Morena said that the mix is by design, and reflects his desire to serve both locals and visitors.

“I have considered whether being a destination restaurant for tourists and a hangout for the local community are compatible goals. I want to have that authenticity of being a seafood place in a town that relied on that for its existence.”

Based on a recent meal, the classic items are deftly prepared, though some dishes are still coming into focus. A bowl of clam chowder was buttery and rich with plenty of shellfish in it, easily one of the better renditions I’ve had lately. An order of crabcakes was perfectly cooked, but was made with very mild king crab leg meat instead of the more oily Chesapeake or Indian backfin crabmeat. If you like crabcakes with a very mild seafood flavor and delicate texture then these may be your new favorite; those who prefer the richer, more fully flavored New England-style crabcakes may give these a pass.

An order of ceviche that was described as Peruvian style was a large portion of mahi mahi in a tangy citrus, purple onion and herb marinade, but lacked the green and yellow chile kick of the traditional version. When contacted about this, Greg Morena said that he started making it using an authentic recipe but people complained that it was too spicy. Peruvians do like it hot, but I think it was toned down a bit much. The restaurant is still tinkering with the balance. Greg said that they may consider offering both hot and a mild versions.

The kitchen was in safe waters with both the fish and chips and the moqueca, the Brazilian seafood stew. This is similar to a mild Thai coconut milk curry, a mix of shrimp, peppers and onions over jasmine rice with a sauce made with cumin, garlic and cilantro. A split king crab leg is served on top. While I presumed that the meat was meant to be added to the broth, a person at a nearby table nibbled at the unseasoned meat between bites. I have a feeling that isn’t what Brazilians do, but none were present, so I couldn’t ask. However you’re supposed to eat it, it’s a big portion of good seafood and a worthy entrée.

We also ordered the fish and chips to see how they’d execute a classic and weren’t disappointed. The beer-battered fillets were made with true cod instead of cheaper and blander substitutes and they had been fried to a perfect crisp exterior but were still moist within. The portion of fish was moderate, yet sufficient. There was a mountain of crisp fries and a portion of coleslaw to fill the gaps. Given that the meal is priced at only 13 bucks, it’s a deal.

To pair with your meal there is a surprisingly large selection of wines by the bottle and glass, and a smaller but well-chosen selection of imported and domestic microbrews. The prices by the glass are more than fair, and this place may get traction as a wine and beer destination downtown. A liquor license has been applied for but not yet granted. I will be happy to see them get it just so that beautiful old bar can be festooned with spirits.

Pappy’s is still fine-tuning their operation, but the service on my visit was friendly and professional. It’s a curious situation that an outsider who is relatively new to both the area and to the restaurant business is so ambitious about giving the Harbor Area a new upscale seafood house. However, the early signs are quite good.

Pappy’s is at 301 W. 6th St., in San Pedro. The menu is at pappysseafood.com.

Details: (424) 224-5444