By Richard Foss, Cuisine and Restaurant Writer
One of the great ironies of history is that when Christopher Columbus first crossed the Atlantic, he did so in search of a route to India to obtain spices. He discovered a new world that had maize, tomatoes, avocados and many other new foods, but only two spices. Those two, chili peppers and vanilla, would enter many cultures’ cuisines, but when it comes to seasoning, the Europeans had more to give than to take.
One of the places Columbus visited was Cuba, an island the Spanish governed ineptly for hundreds of years. The island produced vast amounts of sugar for export but locals retained little of the wealth, so they had to develop a cuisine based on mixed traditions of the Spanish and their African slaves. Imported spices weren’t affordable, so they used green herbs with onions, garlic, citrus and cumin. The resulting cuisine is mild but flavorful. It can be found at San Pedro’s Punto Cubano.
The little restaurant, formerly Mishi Strudel, has a contemporary look, and the pastry case that used to be full of strudel now holds flan and tres leches cakes. It’s a neat, pretty and welcoming space. The menu is odd in one way: though Cubans eat a lot of seafood, it’s entirely missing from the options here. Neither is Punto Cubano a promising place for vegetarians. But if you like pork, beef and chicken, you’re in the right place.
Although Cuban meals are usually filling because they include beans, rice and fried plantains, my first visit to Punto Cubano surprised me with the size of the portions. I wanted to try some of the side items, so my companion and I ordered papas rellenas, mashed potato balls with a meat filling that are deep-fried and topped with a drizzle of garlic sauce. They were attractively presented with a hibiscus flower and some chopped parsley, showing an unusual attention to presentation. The four potato balls were so big that it was too large of a starter for two, and there was much more potato than meat filling. This was the only item we tried that I wouldn’t order again.
Cubano Punto’s menu doesn’t change from lunch to dinner. I have tried three entrées, the lechón asado, picadillo criollo and vaca frita. The first time I ordered vaca frita was because of my amusement at its name —literally, “fried cow.” It’s flank steak slow-simmered to tenderness, then shredded and transferred to a pan where it is fried crisp with garlic, pepper, onion and cumin. If that sounds similar to Mexican carnitas but made with beef, you’re right. There are red and green bell peppers tossed in to sear with the vaca frita, but the attraction of crispy, intensely flavored meat is the same. It’s one of my favorite Cuban dishes and they do it very well here.
My other favorite Cuban meat dish is picadillo, chopped or ground meat simmered with olives, raisins, tomato, wine and bell peppers. The use of olives and raisins with meat goes back to the Moors who ruled Spain in the Middle Ages. The combination of tart pickled flavors with fruity sweetness is a winner. There are different versions of picadillo all over Central and South America, some ornately spiced, but the Cuban version focuses on the flavors of the main ingredients. Cuban picadillo will be a revelation to those who associate Cuban food only with roast chicken and pork.
I didn’t try Cubano Punto’s chicken, but I did try the lechón asado— pulled pork in a sauce based in lime juice and topped with sliced onion. The sauce here has a slightly different balance than what I have experienced elsewhere, a little more citrus and a bit less pepper and cumin. I happen to like that bolder version, but this one was still tasty.
All meals at Cubano Punto come with a small pyramid of white rice, caramelized fried plantains and a bowl of fragrant black beans. Those beans were unusually flavorful, scented with herbs that we speculated might include oregano and marjoram. And though I don’t usually finish all my beans, I did on both visits.
Alcohol isn’t served, but freshly made juices are, and the piña colada was very refreshing. To finish, we had strong Cuban-style coffee and a guava-and-cheese empanada. If you want the coffee and empanadas then order them when your food arrives — both take a while to make but are worth the wait.
The service here is friendly, but can slow down at peak times; if you’re in a hurry let them know or the leisurely pace at lunch may get you in trouble at work. All meals are inexpensive at around $10, making this a great choice for a satisfying meal on a budget. The comfort food of Cuba is subtle and delightful. Punto Cubano is the place to find it locally.
Punto Cubano is open daily from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. at 309 W. 7th St. in San Pedro.
Details: (424) 477-5813.