Trani Brings Back the Family Dining Tradition

By Katrina Guevara, Contributing Writer

Former Los Angeles Dodgers manager Tommy Lasorda once said the late Filippo Trani’s sports bar, Majestic Cafe, served the best linguine and clam sauce. Three decades later, Filippo’s great-grandson, Dustin, is keeping the Italian family tradition alive with an affinity for the Dodgers at J. Trani Ristorante.

Dustin Trani left DOMA Restaurant in Beverly Hills nine weeks ago, but he is far from throwing in the kitchen towel. He was six years old when he started helping around the family business. At 20, Trani reached the executive chef position. He traveled through Thailand, Italy and Croatia to learn about everything from spices to pasta-making. He was a corporate chef for product development for 12 years.

Although San Pedro has moved on from the fishing industry, families like the Tranis have kept the culturally rich history of the community alive. With roots implanted deeply into the neighborhoods, it’s no wonder Trani is so grounded. He is also artistically inclined when it comes to music and art. Paint is his food. His canvas is the porcelain plate, as said in a video interview from Gayot.

Trani, along with keynote speaker Adrian Grenier and Cabrillo Marine Aquarium and Friends, hosted a chef’s table dinner at this past October’s Sustainable Seafood Expo at Crafted. The chef served a four-course meal, including seafood from king crab to halibut.

Here is what the seasoned chef had to say about his life in the kitchen and plans after leaving DOMA.

Katrina Guevara: Growing up, did you always plan on pursuing a career in the food industry?
Dustin Trani: Absolutely. There is no other line of work like it. As a kid, I’d spend my time following my dad around in the kitchen. It was such an exciting, electric environment. I instantly fell in love with the restaurant life.

KG: How would you say the community of San Pedro has shifted its views on food?
DT: The explosion of cooking shows has given the public a peek into the restaurant business. [It has] sparked an interest in food as a whole. Folks are a lot more educated on quality ingredients nowadays, and a lot more open to the new, which is a good thing.

KG: How does your restaurant J.Trani’s keep the family tradition alive?
DT: J. Trani’s is special place. You can walk into the dining room on any given night and bump into an old friend or relative. I truly believe that the art of dining with friends or family is a very special tradition. Breaking bread brings people closer together.

KG: Can you explain the flow or meditative process that comes along with food prep and cooking?
DT: Cooking is simple: Great ingredients make a great dish. It’s all about understanding flavors and how they complement each other. And as for prep, we at Trani’s live by the quote from the great John Wooden, “Failing to prepare is preparing to fail.”

KG: What is one lesson you learned from your early years working in a kitchen that still rings true?
DT: The No. 1 lesson in the kitchen is you’re never done learning. And one man or woman doesn’t make a kitchen successful. It takes a team, a family, if you will, to reach success.

KG: Are there any dishes at J.Trani that have been on the menu for decades? If so, can you give us an example?
DT: One of our longest running items would be our “Wet Beef Sandwich.” [It has] stacks of sliced beef with provolone and rich beef au jus. And, it’s just like the dish great grandpa Filippo made. Some things you just don’t mess with.

KG: If you could order for a couple on their first date, what would the entire dinner consist of?
DT: Well, I’m a hopeless romantic, so I’d do it up to the nines. I’d take them on a tour of the menu starting with lighter fare, moving on to some more rich, intense dishes all perfectly paired with wine, of course. A must try at Trani’s would be our  calamari new style, pancetta truffle pizza, shishito peppers and any of our house made pastas. For entrees, the swordfish Milanese or  16-ounce rib eye” would be ideal. Don’t forget to save room for dessert— walnut rum bread pudding with dolce de leche gelato.

KG: Are there any prospective family members next in line to take over the family business?
DT: As of now, I’m the youngling running the show, but who knows what the future holds.

KG: How important is using sustainably sourced seafood and ingredients for your restaurants?
DT: Sustainable seafood is very important to our future and me. Certain farmed fish has come leaps and bounds over the years, which presents a consistent and high quality product that is not depleting our oceans’ resources. It’s going to be the way of the future.

KG: Since leaving DOMA two months ago, how have you been spending your free time?
DT: Since leaving DOMA, I’ve been spending my time traveling, gathering more inspiration and returning to J.Trani’s to continue to grow and expand with some exciting new menus and special events. Also, we are looking at opening another location or two in the near future. It’s a very exciting time for the Trani Group. Could there be another Trani’s Majestic, like the original restaurant in 1925 in the works? Time will tell.