Food: Science or Sense?

By Lori Lynn Hirsch Stokoe, Food Writer and Photographer
On Feb. 22, scores of food aficionados convened at the Ports O’ Call Restaurant in San Pedro to discuss and debate “Food: Sense or Science?”

Do we eat with our mouths or with our minds? And is eating—both a basic necessity and one of life’s great pleasures—still fun? Food is one of today’s most fervently discussed topics, ’round the clock, from the mass media of television and radio, to the Internet and bookstore shelves. In asking “Food: Sense or Science?” the purpose of CULINARIA Query 2015 is to examine the place food currently has in our collective consciousness and to reconcile eating, feeling and information.

In the Query & Lecture Series: “Food: Sense or Science?” Philip M. Dobard, vice president, SoFAB Institute served as moderator of the discussion. Panelists included  Noramae Munster, certified raw food chef and culinary director, Ports O’Call Waterfront Dining, Joshua Goldman, mixologist, sommelier and restaurateur; partner, Soigne Group; managing partner, Brilliatshine, James L. Melikian, president, The Popcorn Man, and Lesley Jacobs Solmonson, senior editor, Chilled Magazine; editor-in-chief, SoFAB Magazine; Author, Gin: A GlobalHistory; and co-author, The 12 Bottle Bar, and (yours truly) Lori Hirsch Stokoe,www.tastewiththeeyes.com food writer, food photographer, recipe developer, and caterer.

SoFAB is a nonprofit cultural enterprise. It documents and celebrates the food and drink of all cultures through exhibits, programming and a range of media. SoFAB is growing into the nation’s most comprehensive cultural institution studying food and drink.

What is it about food that we have become so obsessed with, and how is this fascination manifesting itself in our culture? Can we simply appreciate a tomato? Or must we know if the seeds are of an heirloom variety, if it is organic or grown locally?

Dobard began by acknowledging how food had brought all of us together in the room, and asked the panel to consider if all processed food was bad for us. When a lettuce leaf is picked, then washed and brought to market, it has indeed been “processed.” And that masa which is made into corn tortillas is processed, but again, not necessarily bad.  Goldman explained the difference between “naturally grown” processed foods – such as ingredients made from seaweed versus items like unnatural additives used to prevent colors and flavors from separating in popular sports drinks.

Are we overthinking food? Dobard asked. 

“We have lots of information regarding the food we eat, but may not necessarily be making the best choices available to us,” Munster said. 

She also talked about the 80/20 rule applying to food choices, suggesting that by simply making healthy choices 80 percent of the time it could help lead to better overall health.

The subject of organic food was discussed in detail—a big dilemma being its cost. Solmonson made the case that while some families may want to make healthier choices, they are not able to make it happen when it comes to the family budget. Others in the audience believed a non-organic apple from the 99-Cent Store is equally as nutritious as a much more expensive organic apple from Whole Foods Market. Melikian emphasized that more nutritional information needs to be taught in schools, while healthy food choices need to start at an early age at home.
We discussed what is commonly called “kid food,”–when parents may be eating a healthy dinner, yet serve hot dogs, grilled cheese, or delivered pizza to their children – believing that their children would not eat “adult food.” Could the healthy foods that adults are eating be prepared in a way that would be irresistible to children? Solmonson added that every parent’s dilemma is how to add as many vegetables as possible into the child’s diet.

Farmers are not producing the tastiest vegetables, but the most profitable, Goldman argued, resulting in kids’ lack of enthusiasm for fresh vegetables. He also says it doesn’t necessarily need to take more energy to prepare fresh vegetables. We can teach simple techniques to put something delicious and nutritious on the table. For example, place fresh carrots in a plastic bag, add butter and spices and pop it in the microwave for a healthy, tasty, fresh veggie side dish in minutes.

“When it comes to nutrition, is there information overload?” Dobard posited.
Solmonson believes the Internet and smart phones have had a huge impact, but the problem may be that not all the information available at our fingertips is correct. Often the most popular opinion goes to the top of the Internet search, but unfortunately it may contain false information about the food. Goldman suggests the Internet is a fantastic tool, but one must take the time to research to be certain that the source is reliable.

The panel discussion ended with a question-and-answer session during which the audience shared stories of family health and history and opinions of the panel’s remarks. It was a lively couple of hours, with interesting debate and discussion, a diverse and passionate panel, and different perspectives on food culture.

Ports O’ Call Waterfront Dining offered a complimentary buffet of appetizers including copy cat In-N-Out burgers made with vegetable protein instead of beef, and sushi, pea and mint crostini, truffle mac ’n’ cheese cups and more. The bar featured a tart “skinny margarita” made with agave nectar, as a toast to National Margarita Day. Solmonson capped off the event with a spirited lesson on gin and its history, and a tasting of three very distinct styles of that distilled liquor flavored with juniper and other botanicals.

“We can either look at food as poison or look at food as medicine,” Goldman said. 
Everyone seemed to agree that we make our own choices, and in spite of big corporate marketing and manipulative advertising, we live in California, a land of plenty – and it is indeed up to us to make informed decisions about our food, nutrition and health.