The sun beats down on Pamplona in Central Spain, searing the land with the intensity of July. Hoards are drawn to the running of the bulls, celebrating the fiesta of San Fermin. The narrow streets echo with the sound of hooves and the shouts of spectators.  The cobblestones are stained with spilled wine and tourist blood.

The Costa Azul, mountains and central plains coupled with the Mediterranean climate make Spain the “Southern California of Europe.” Spanish cuisine uses seasonal bounty to fuel the menu, and to temper the weather.  Cool and liquid “gazpacho” is prepared with beautiful summer tomatoes and garlic in one region, while another neighborhood might blend green grapes and almonds for a refreshing soup. “Paella,” the national dish, is rice and whatever is handy and tasty, from chicken to rabbit to sausage to seafood. Spain boasts fantastic vineyards, and is well known for wine, as well as fortified wines like Sherry, Port and Madeira.  

Take a trip to Spain on a Saturday afternoon for paella, shop for wonderful Manchego cheeses and Serrano ham; pick a bottle of Gato Negro wine from San Pedro, and all without a passport or security control?  La Espanola is tucked in a corner of Harbor City that no one but Columbus might discover, but is well worth the adventure.  Near the intersection of Vermont and Lomita Blvd., this treasure chest is in an industrial area, but has a pleasant picnic area alongside for enjoying paella and your purchases. Grape and bougainvillea vines shade the patio, providing a natural gathering spot for the local Spanish community on weekend afternoons. 

The paella is very popular, available only on Saturdays and only by reservation placed on Friday. The reputation is well earned, with the golden hills of fragrant saffron rice brimming with chicken, pork loin, sausages, and a variety of seafood including mussels, jumbo shrimp and calamari. What a good deal for $8.50!  Seafood paella is packed with jumbo shrimp, mussels, calamari, clams and scallops with seasonal vegetables.  The delightful thing about paella is its local and seasonal quality, using whatever is fresh and available.  Vegetarian paella comes with cauliflower, broccoli, artichokes, green beans, peas, carrots, bell peppers, onions, butterbeans, and other seasonal vegetables, and may be ordered for a group.  

Saturday is paella day, but the shopping is excellent all the time.  Refrigerator cases lining one wall hold a variety of cheese riches, many handmade from sheep or goats milk, imported from different areas of Spain. An all cow’s milk cheese made on the island of Menorca is called Maho’n D.O. Hand-rubbed with olive oil and paprika and then aged in underground caves, it has a smooth, buttery flavor.  Tres Leches is a customer favorite, a variety of Manchego style cheese, blended from cow, goat and sheep’s milk, with a mild flavor.  Cabra Al Vinois literally “goat with wine,” a semi-firm pasteurized goat’s milk cheese from Murcia, cured for 72 hours in local red wine, giving it a delicate grapey flavor. Soft goat’s milk cheese is similar to a French Chevre. The Capriche’vre Hierbas Naturales, rolled in herbs, is terrific on a salad of baby greens, garnished with almonds. A Catalan specialty cheese, Mato’Del Pirineu, from the Pyrenees Mountains, is like ricotta, and is served for dessert, with walnuts and toast and drizzled with honey.

Spain is famous for ham, and La Espanola does not disappoint on the pork level.  Imported Jamon Serrano is made in authentic old country style, and comes whole or sliced. The “Jamonera” Serrano ham stand is available to anchor the splendid haunch as it is carved paper thin, in traditional fashion.  This ham gives procciutto a real run for its money, flavorful, salty and well aged.  Domestic Serrano style ham is special because ham hocks and ham bones are on offer as well, bringing verve and depth to beans and soups.  Spanish chorizo sausage is different than the familiar Mexican chorizo, dried and sliced thinly like salami rather than fried with eggs.  La Espanola makes its own chorizo on site, following a family recipe while preserving the artisanal methods of Spain’s great “Charcuteros.”

A wide variety of Spanish groceries make shopping interesting.  Spices include all four types of paprika (mild, smoked, bittersweet and hot), saffron, herbs, peppers and salts, as well as esoterica like bacon- or shrimp-flavored bullion cubes.  Roasted tomato sauce picks up chicken and pork very nicely.  The tins of imported sardines, anchovies and tuna are quality staples for the pantry and a good base for an easy summer supper with olives, pickles, bread and a bottle of Spanish wine.  Spanish olive oil is more fully flavored than the Italian equivalent, strong and fragrant, and good for cooking as well as dressing salads and dipping bread.  

The wine wall is fascinating, showing off the talent of Spain’s vintners.  Regional Cava sparkling wine is the bubbly of Spain, both rose’ and brut, and a special reserve Cava from Segura is “low inventory”, so be quick.  Sidra Gaitero is a light, crisp sparkling cider, unusual and lovely. A gutsy red wine like Dominio de Taras Baltos is100 percent Mencia, with a powerful nose of ripe red fruit.  Merlot Vinedo No.4 is velvety and smoky, solid and polished.  Rosé from Senorio de Sarria delivers, with an aroma full of wild fruit.  Sherry is a specialty of Spain, and La Gitana Manzanilla is a good place to start for sipping with tapas, olives and almonds.

Sherry and wine vinegars are also imported,and add the right spot of acid to salads and marinated fish.  Traditional Spanish marmalades of quince, figs, plums, tomatoes, wild blackberries and raspberries are served with cheese or yogurt, or at breakfast on toast.  They give a lively touch to cheesecakes, and top ice cream with style.  A child would love these marmalades spread on apiece of apple or a cracker.  
La Espanola Meats 25020 Doble Ave. Harbor City (310) 539-0455.